When it comes to skincare products, the question about active concentrations is one of the first that comes up, and it's no surprise. Renowned beauty expert Teresa de la Cierva posed this question to me years ago, and the answer, as in many aspects of skin care, is a solid "it depends."
The Key is in Optimal Concentration
Some actives require specific concentrations to be effective. It's not just a matter of more is better; It's a matter of finding the right balance. A clear example is vitamin C, known for its antioxidant properties and its ability to brighten the skin. However, the vitamin C At concentrations that are too low, less than 8%, it does not offer significant benefits, while excessive concentrations can cause irritation. But not all ingredients require such high concentrations to be beneficial. Retinoids, for example, starting at 0.2% are considered a high concentration. Active ingredients such as niacinamide or panthenol can have concentrations of 0.5% to 5%.
Finding the optimal concentration is essential to obtain the desired results.
Different Action Depending on Concentration
Some active ingredients act differently depending on the concentration in which they are found in the product. For example, hydroxy acids, which depending on the concentration, can act as humectants at low concentrations and as exfoliants at higher concentrations.
Not only concentration influences
The pH of a cosmetic or dermatological formula plays a crucial role in determining its effectiveness and tolerance on the skin. An acidic pH, for example, can significantly increase the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, which is beneficial for certain treatments aimed at combating specific skin problems such as acne, hyperpigmentation or aging. However, it is important to note that a lower pH can also increase the risk of irritation, especially in sensitive or compromised skin. Therefore, it is essential to find an appropriate balance between the efficacy and tolerance of the product.
Assets that complement and enhance each other
There are active ingredients that, although included in formulas in relatively small quantities, are effective due to their complementary nature. In some cases, the synergy between different ingredients can enhance its benefits. For example, vitamin C and ferulic acid can be supplemented to combat oxidative stress more effectively. In this sense, without further increasing concentration, effectiveness increases thanks to the strategic combination.
Version and Form Matter
It is not only about the quantity, but also about the way the active is presented in the formula. The active ingredients in their liposome version, for example, have better absorption, are protected and for this reason they better preserve their integrity and penetrate faster and more directly, increasing the amount of active ingredients that reach the desired depth in the epidermis. In those cases, even if the active ingredient is in a lower concentration in the formula, it will provide superior results.
In short, there is no single answer as to whether more is better when it comes to active concentrations in skin care products. The key is in careful and strategic formulation, taking into account the specific properties of each active ingredient and its interaction with other ingredients. Sometimes, a lower concentration can be highly effective if the right partners in the formula are chosen.
When looking for skin care products, it is essential to consider not only the concentration of the active ingredients, but also their quality and presentation in the formula. Expert advice and understanding your individual skin needs can be instrumental in making informed decisions about which products are most suitable. Skin beauty lies in balance, and finding the right concentration of actives is a crucial step on this journey to radiant, healthy skin.